Louisville Lawn Care Blog
We have reached our fall season which means it’s the perfect time for lawn seeding. We LOVE to hear that our clients are planning fall seeding!! Seeding is the most successful when done in September and October and is just what your lawn needs to help fill in any bare areas that may be present in your lawn.
Here are some tips for seeding on your own:
- Step 1: If your lawn has spots of dead, matted bluegrass or ryegrass that did not survive through this past summer, these spots must be raked and seeded to allow desirable grass to grow. So rake these areas well!
- Step 2: Add some fresh topsoil or compost to these bare areas
- Step 3: Sprinkle these areas with a high quality, turf-type tall fescue grass seed and work the seed down into the soil with a garden weasel or rake
- Step 4: Water each day until your seed germinates, approximately 15-20 days after sowing.
Always use a turf-type tall fescue blend, the best choice for our area. Read any seed package carefully prior to purchase, as many seeds that claim to be fescue have additives like bluegrass or ryegrass. Avoid this problem by purchasing the highest quality turf-type tall fescue. Lawn Cure offers premium Pennington Smart Seed for $2.75/lb. Order today by calling Lawn Cure at 812-246-8800.
Be sure to let your lawn care company know if you have seeded so your applications can be adjusted to best support your new seed!
Want Lawn Cure to do the seeding work for you? Sign up for our organic aeration and seeding! Call today for further details!!
Don’t wait! Make your fall seeding plans now! Your lawn will thank you with a thick, lush stand of turf next spring!!
Why is my lawn so stressed out?
The simple answer is SUMMER!! Summer takes a toll on our lawns and we at Lawn Cure would like to assist you in preserving your lawn as we move through the hot summer season. July and August will be the toughest months your lawn will face all year. There are 3 main issues your turf will go thru and most likely the reason why its under so much stress.
- Lack of water
- Heat stress in the soil/roots
- Mowing too short
Hydration is essential to your lawn’s health. Generally, running your sprinkler (or irrigation system) for 30 minutes 3 or 4 times per week in the early morning hours should suffice to keep your lawn in good health and color. Try to avoid night watering, if possible, as this can lead to disease issues in the lawn. It’s recommended that 1-2 inches of water be applied to the lawn weekly.
Heat stress occurs mainly through the hot summer months in which the soil heats up to undesirable temperatures and damages the roots and grass blades. The root system slowly pulls nutrients from the grass blades to stay alive causing the blades to dull and brown out. Keeping your lawn thick, mowed at a high setting, and watering consistently will help eliminate heat stress.
Do not mow your lawn unless it has grown to have a 4” or higher blade. When you do mow, set the mower on one of the highest settings, one that leaves at least a 3” blade behind. Leaving the grass blades taller provides numerous benefits towards keeping the soil healthy and productive. Cutting the turf too short will add stress to the lawn and cause color issues.
With a little patience and TLC, our lawns will survive another summer and before we know it, our cool fall temperatures will be here and our lawns will be thriving again! Stay cool until then!
To help maintain a beautiful lawn, proper mowing techniques are a must! Read on to learn some good-to-know- mowing do's and don'ts!
Summer Mowing Do’s!
- Mow the grass when it is dry and the sun is not directly overhead
- Mulch your clippings to return the nutrients to the soil
- Sharpen the mower blades approximately every two months, more or less depending on the size of your lawn
- Change your mowing pattern every so often, mowing vertically, horizontally and diagonally
- Mow your lawn on a high setting, leaving at least a 3” blade behind. Higher mowed grass will have long, deeper roots that will be able to find moisture during the hottest days.
Summer Mowing Don’ts!
- Don’t mow too short! Mowing too short will cause shallow roots and a stressed, brown lawn.
- Don’t cut more than a third of the grass blade at one cutting. If the lawn gets too tall, break it down into multiple cuts with about three days in between.
- Don’t leave large clumps of grass on the turf. These clumps will block the sunlight and cause the areas of turf underneath to turn yellow.
- Don’t mow with dull blades. Dull blades will rip the grass and make it susceptible to disease and insect feeding.
- Don’t excessively edge! Excessive edging creates a prime environment for crabgrass and weed breakthrough.
Enjoy your summer mowing season!
Summertime has arrived and with it the onset of hot, summer days. It's time to put our lawn sprinklers and irrigation systems to work! This begs the questions.... When do I water? How much do I water? What if I don't water? Let's review the answers below:
When is the best time to water my lawn?
MORNING!! (Approximately 5-9 a.m.) Morning is the best time to water for maximum benefit. The soil will become nicely saturated with morning watering, but the turf blade will be allowed to dry more quickly, helping to prevent lawn disease. Watering in the evening is not recommended as it will keep the grass blade wet overnight, causing a major breeding ground for fungi.
How much water should I apply?
Water deeply and infrequently, with the goal of adding 1-inch of water to the lawn at each session. This should be done 3-4 times/week, more if we are in drought conditions. Water pressure and irrigation heads may alter water output, so set out a shallow bucket (or a tuna can works great for this!) while watering the first few times and allow an inch of water to collect. Note the time the sprinkler/irrigation was running in order to accumulate the inch of water and then you will know for a certainty how long to let your sprinklers/irrigation system run at each session.
What will happen if I decide not to water my lawn and my area is in a drought?
If we experience drought conditions and you choose not to irrigate, the turf will go dormant to protect the root system of the plant. The grass will green right back up with adequate water following a mild to moderate drought BUT if our area experiences an extended drought, some areas of the turf may be thinned or even completely die off if the lawn does not receive water. If this occurs, plan to seed (and water!) in the fall.
Remember, a few extra dollars spent on watering your lawn to keep it healthy in the summer is much more cost effective then trying to seed and a water a brand-new lawn in the fall!!
Is this scenario happening to you? It’s late spring and it has been 2 or 3 days since you have mowed the lawn. The lawn looks pretty great except you ask yourself… “What is that fuzziness on the top of my lawn? Is my beautiful, green lawn getting some weird weed infestation?”
Most likely, no. Just like we see our trees and shrubs going through their annual reproductive cycle (i.e, seedlings flying around everywhere!) it is the time of year that our grass goes to seed. The top of the blade will begin to flower and from a distance, looks like a fuzzy weed has overtaken your lawn.
This seed is not viable, just a phase in the life cycle of the plant. Be patient and keep mowing as normal and soon this “flowering” phase will pass.